North of the Annapurnas lies a different Nepal: a rain-shadow desert of ochre cliffs, wind-carved canyons and whitewashed villages. Lower Mustang, around Jomsom, Marpha and Kagbeni, is open to all trekkers and famous for its apple orchards and Thakali food.
Beyond Kagbeni begins Upper Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo, whose walled capital Lo Manthang still feels like a medieval Tibetan town. Monasteries hold centuries-old murals, and ancient cave dwellings dot the cliffs. Entry requires a special restricted-area permit and a licensed guide.
Because the monsoon barely reaches it, Mustang is one of the few parts of Nepal that is good to visit in summer. In spring, Lo Manthang hosts the masked Tiji festival.
