Dashain is the biggest festival of the year — a fifteen-day celebration of the goddess Durga's victory over the demon Mahishasura, and of good over evil. Offices close, cities empty, and almost everyone travels home to their families.
On the tenth day, Vijaya Dashami, elders place tika (a mix of rice, yoghurt and red powder) and sprigs of sacred barley shoots called jamara on the foreheads of younger relatives, with blessings for the year. Children fly kites, and bamboo swings appear in villages.
For travellers, Dashain means a festive atmosphere but also busy roads and closed shops on the main days — book transport early.
